Category Archives: fashion

NZFW17 | Lela Jacobs AW18

The concrete silos down at Silo Park are quite special for shows that incorporate live percussive music as we witnessed with Lela Jacobs’ offering on the evening of day 2. All silos were completely packed out with space made for the runway that wove through each silo.

As the drums started beating, the sound of recorders joined in and models walked out in monochromatic looks with a punch of colour provided in a royal blue. The looks were grounded by black high-top shiny rubber boots that offset the ethereal look and styling.

Ensembles were layered and draped with the fabrication exploring luxe textures in silk, cotton and merino. Loose knits fell from the shoulders with peeks of flesh coming through.

The collection felt comfortable, luxurious and easy to wear. It was a loose silhouette with two outwear pieces that had architectural sleeves which encompassed the body like a duvet.  Overall the show was ethereal with beautiful acoustics and a unique collection to match, a highlight of fashion week.

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Words by Dru Douglas.
Images by Lyle Adams. More here.

NZFW17 | Hailwood AW18

Mister state trooper, please don’t stop me,
Please don’t stop me, please don’t stop me

When Bruce Springsteen’s State Trooper opens up the Hailwood show, you know you’re in for a sultry collection.

It’s funny because earlier in the day I was reading about Kim Kardashian channeling Jackie O for her recent photoshoot in Interview magazine with her daughter North. Jackie O of course sported a voluminous bob which is what we saw on the runway at Hailwood.

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Giving us a 70’s vibe, the collection was hedonistic with velvet pants, sequined wrap dresses, faux fur coats and floor length gowns. Opening up the show was Ashleigh Good who previously served as Karl Lagerfield’s muse at Chanel; so it was perfect to see Good embodying the Hailwood woman.

It was a sophisticated callback to the 70’s without it being dated or over the top. The beautiful thing about the collection was Hailwood’s love for women. It was evident in the way the garments flattered and respected a woman’s body. The 70’s were a time when there was the women’s liberation movement; women felt free from sexual identities and this collection carries beautifully that same energy.

Words by Dru Douglas.
Images by Lyle Adams. More here.

NZFW17 | Mitchell Vincent AW18

Mitchell Vincent showcased an understated, cool and laid back collection that focused on prints and comfort. The prints varied with a couple of abstract and monstera deliciosa leaf prints.

Monstera deliciosa is of course the ‘it” plant of Insta at the moment making an appearance in everyone’s styled shots.

Layered pieces provided some interest and contrast which gave the collection an added value of being able to mix and match. The casting for the show was perfect, as you really got a sense of who the Mitchell Vincent client was.

Overall an easy to wear collection with some stand-out outerwear pieces that you could wear to take you from the city to the beach.

Words by Dru Douglas.
Images by Lyle Adams. More here.

NZFW17 | Katherine Victoria AW18

TEXTURE!!! I had to write that in caps because that is what Katherine Victoria’s debut collection at NZFW on day 2 screamed at me. That should not be taken the wrong way either, the ensembles that paraded down the runway longed to be touched.

We had velvet, paillette sequins, faux fur, shearling and frayed applique.

It was feminine, fun, tactile, colorful and completely wearable with the silhouette focusing more on a cinched waist. The pieces that I loved were perhaps the more understated ones with the embossed knit dress and the emerald green pussy bow dress that looked absolutely stunning on Mary Maguet.

I should mention that this was perhaps one of the few diverse shows at NZFW so far.

The beauty look for the show was a favorite with a bold liquid line bordering the eyes that gave it an edge. I felt perhaps the tassel earrings were an after-thought and weren’t really needed.

Words by Dru Douglas.
Images by Lyle Adams. More here.

NZFW 2017 | 5 mins with Liz Mitchell

As one of New Zealand’s leading couture and bespoke designers, Liz Mitchell’s clothes are chosen for their sumptuous fabrics, impeccable tailoring and attention to detail.

She is an ambassador for the campaign for wool and was awarded MNZM for services to the fashion industry in 2005.

What inspired your collection?

Inspiration from the Bloomsbury artist Vanessa Bell and the Harris Tweed textiles.

Name 3 NZ designers we should watch out for….

I am interested to see Zambezi, Kate Sylvester, and Lela Jacobs.

Describe your quintessential customer…

My quintessential client loves the story telling of our clothes with the quality of fabric, the craftsmanship of bespoke, and the personal experience with our atelier.

What’s your social media of choice?

Instagram

Who do you love to follow and where?

Companies developing real ethical practices- Alabama Chanin, is a favourite.

What are you currently listening to?

Aldous Harding- Stop Your Tears, Aldous Harding – Imagining My Man, P J Harvey- The Glorious Land

Word association

New Zealand – inspiration

Fashion – passion

Music – essential background to life

Art – cultural essential to feed the imagination

Winter – my favourite time to layer up with wool

Holiday – relaxing with friends at Leigh

NZFW17 | Company of Strangers AW18

There is such an attitude with this collection that every woman can relate to. With Sara Munro discussing the inspiration behind the collection saying “Our collection began with a story we dreamed up about a woman who haunts her husband from the other side, she messes with him constantly so he can never forget her. ”

You get the sense of this woman with how the collection was styled, shirts half fastened, jackets worn almost completely pulled off the body, cut outs in knits, shirt dresses held up by cording, this sort of juxtaposition of masculine and feminine. The fabrication with the different use of textures of lace, leather, silks, wool made the collection interesting.

The collection’s colour palette was dark and moody with a splatter print that was reminiscent somewhat of Pollock. The purposefully disheveled hair and the pop of red on the lip gave the girl that edge to confidently pull off the styled looks.

With red drapes as a backdrop and red stripes on the runway, red is a colour of passion, love and devotion, all of which comes through the collection beautifully in different ways.

Words by Dru Douglas.
Images by Christine Mansford. More here.

NZFW17 | Rachel Mills AW18

Kicking off day 2 of NZFW was Rachel Mills who debuted her AW18 collection with an installation that had everyone queuing up to get in. Clever use of lighting and cardboard tubing set as the backdrop for each of the looks, with models lounging as everyone wove through the installation on a set path.

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Each look demanded our attention with beautiful knits, tailoring and luxury sleepwear all accessorised with bean jewellery made in Rarotonga. I always feel uneasy when designers draw references or inspiration from Pacific Island culture yet fail to cast a model from the Islands*.

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What I loved the most about the installation was that you could take your time to appreciate each look. It was a great reminder for us all at NZFW to slow down and appreciate the beautiful things in life. The collection felt easy, relaxed yet sophisticated and it was echoed beautifully throughout the installation with the styling, music and staging.

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It has been interesting to see the Rachel Mills brand grow from strength to strength after being a recipient of the AMP Regional Scholarship in 2016. It was a good start for Mills’ debut at NZFW and we can only imagine it getting better.

*Note: We were contacted by Rachel Mills’ team to inform us that models cast were of Maori, Asian, Argentinian, French and New Zealand European descent.

Words by Dru Douglas.
Images by Christine Mansford. More here.